Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Gorgeous Granada





It is 7 a.m. and still quite dark. Dressed in a warm jacket with hair that is still wet, I wait outside the Alhambra this morning, along with hordes of people, all waiting to buy tickets to enter Granada’s prized attraction. The temperature is 10 °C. October is a month of great change said the guidebook – it meant weather-wise, the temperature drops sharply in Granada every week, sensible words of advice to the tourist. But the same words applied to me as well. At least those were my thoughts as I stood in line. My birthday is in 10 ten days and while each day marks my days on this earth, there are some days that dig deeper and leave a lasting impression.

I am on a Spanish holiday, combined with a business trip (at least as a excuse). Since business is far from my mind at this time, I justify this vacation as an advance birthday gift to myself. After all, I will mark a significant point in my life this year, with this birthday. It is the first year that I don’t have parents to watch over me and bless me, a year in which my daughter will finish tenth grade, a year in which my business seems poised to grow. It seems to be a time of great upheavals on many fronts, some that are welcome but scary at the same time.

The Alhambra, from the Arabic al-qala’at al-hamra (red castle), a fortress from the 9th century, is Granada’s main attraction – a palace that has seen many rulers, some who sought to build it, some who wanted to destroy it while others wanted to leave an impression on it nevertheless. Today within the vast space the main sights include the Palacio Nazaries and the Alcazaba (Citadel) and the Generalife gardens. Everyday about 6600 tickets are sold at the gates. Without advance booking, we were worried gaining admission. But as the line inched forward, we manage to get two tickets and start walking in.

The walls of the Alhambra look disappointing from the outside, not quite red or in a good state of repair, seem imposing, not particularly attractive. But the history of the Alhambra starts from the 1237 AD when the defensive fort Alcazaba was built. Almost 100 years later, the beautiful summer palace, Generalife was built. The opulent Palacio Nazaries was built later. As with most palaces of architectural splendor, the remains (most of which has been or is being heavily restored) themselves look grand. While the interiors with the ornate and intricate mocarabe work looks dull today, it is impressive for the extent and intricacy. The ceilings are spectacular and perhps the most striking aspect of the entire Alhmabra is the theme of running water. There are fountains inside rooms, within patios and in the Generalife, at one point the railing on the steps have water running through them. The carefully trimmed hedges of myrtle, a bush believed to have magical properties both hidden and visible, line every building. Pomegranate trees (from which Granada gets its name) are seen interspersed with olive trees. Water bodies are ubiquitous with benches everywhere to rest your tired feet or just to admire the scenery.

We climbed up the Torre de la vela in the Alcazaba for a spectacular view of Granada. At one point, tempted by the soothing breeze that had taken over after the sun rose and took the chill off, we lay down, sky gazing. I looked at wispy clouds splitting into nothingness as I dozed. The low hum of other visitors speaking softly or the soft clicks of cameras added to the lazy atmosphere. I felt one with the clear blueness of the sky. A simple joy took over. Upheavals happen to people, to cities, to civilizations. Even nature undergoes major changes. For me, change seems uncomfortable, unnecessary even but change also offers me an opportunity for growth. And that I am pleased to welcome. As the gentle sunshine warmed my face, I smiled. I felt happy, content, grateful to be here. Tomorrow I will go back home. That means change, but it also means I will move, travel and grow – into the person I am meant to be.

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